December 30 – December 31
By the time we left Zion, the trip had settled into a rhythm—coffee at first light, long drives through changing terrain, and chasing big landscapes before dark. The east entrance views, a reset in Kanab, and a quiet camp in the Kaibab National Forest carried us toward one final test: the Grand Canyon. We planned for flexibility, unsure how the miles would unfold, but ready to let the canyon decide what kind of day it would be.
We enjoyed breakfast the previous morning in Zion Canyon Village so much we returned to Perk before checking out of the campground. Then we drove out the east entrance. The views past the tunnel were totally different and a very cool drive.
Kanab brought a much needed break, with a much needed joint laundry and car wash. We grabbed some pizza to go and a few groceries on our way out of town. Arriving at the Grand Canyon National Park visitor center just as the sun was setting, we got our visitor center goodies and snapped a few pictures at the rim.
Next up was finding a camp for the night. There was a road into to the Kaibab National Forest in the park with camping only a short drive. The first few sites had people, and what looked like a big group of tents. But we quickly found a nice and quiet spot to ourselves.
Leftover pizza and an early bedtime was our only agenda for the night, so we could catch the sunrise over the canyon rim. However, the rim was cold the next morning and I quickly gave up on the sunrise after snapping a couple of pictures.
We had breakfast back at the van in the parking lot before getting on the shuttle to go to the South Kaibab trailhead. I was hoping for a Rim to River to Rim hike but was not sure if Dan was up to it. The plan was for him to go as far as he thought he should and turn around – and I could do the full hike if I was up to it. Problem is, Dan loves the downhill. I even had to jog a bit to keep up with him. We got to Phantom Ranch together and took a short break.
I like to challenge myself on the uphill, so I just kept walking as we went up. We stayed in radio contact for a while and switched over to our Zoleo’s when we lost contact. I felt pretty good at halfway up and was making near the same time as I did on the descent. So I decided to keep walking with no breaks if I did not need them to see how quickly I could finish the hike. Not rushing – just staying steady – I ended up finishing almost right at 5.5 hours for the entire hike which included the break at the bottom. I took a quick break at the top and then turned around to meet Dan. He said I could go ahead to the van, but I wanted to support him on the way out. I walked about a mile and a ¼ back down the canyon and found him taking a quick break. He still finished in under the time we were giving ourselves. We estimated it could take twice as long to get out as it took to get down. We had just started our trip back up the canyon 3 hours after we began our descent, which included our break at Phantom Ranch. He hiked out in much less than twice that time. Dan’s morale improved quickly after we got out. I even offered to drive (which I almost never do) and he didn’t take me up on it. We stopped for dinner at Grand Canyon Brewing + Distillery in Williams, AZ and then a Planet Fitness in Prescott to freshen up. Dan was flying out of Phoenix the next day and we wanted to get close. Trying to find a camp for the night, we went to a Cracker Barrel in Phoenix first. We have had lots of luck staying at Cracker Barrel’s in the past and planned to have breakfast there the next day. Even though there were two other campers there, we obeyed the “No Overnight” signs. We ended up staying in a Walmart parking lot that night. I slept better than I was expecting when we arrived to sounds of fireworks in every direction – as it was New Year’s Eve.
We climbed out of the canyon tired but steady, legs burning and spirits intact. The miles had stretched us, but they also sharpened our confidence, partnership, and resilience. Dinner in Williams, showers in Prescott, and a Walmart parking lot under scattered fireworks marked an unceremonious but fitting end to the year. There was no countdown, no crowded celebration—just the quiet satisfaction of finishing what we started. We had gone rim to river and back again, and crossed into a new year the same way we had traveled all week: moving forward and together.
Essential Items for a Rim to River to Rim Hike1
Zoleo – we used our satellite communicators to keep in touch when the canyon walls blocked our radio signals
Radio – but real time communication with our radios was preferred when possible
Electrolytes – winter hiking still demands intentional hydration, even in cold temperatures
Sports Nutrition – easy to digest calories helped with the hard push out of the canyon
- Affiliate Disclosure:
This post may contain affiliate links, including links to Amazon. If you choose to purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I share these products because I use them myself or believe they are genuinely useful. Please only use affiliate links if the product is something you already intend to buy and Amazon is your preferred retailer. Your support helps maintain this site and continue sharing future adventures. ↩︎